Boot or shoe.



PATENTED NOV. 12, 1907.

1?. W. HUMAN.

BOOT 0R SHOE.

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PATENTED NOV. 12, 1907.

I. W. HOMAN.

BOOT OR SHOE.

APPLIOATIOH FILED MAY 12. 1908.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

BOOT OR SHOE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Nov. 12, 1907.

Application filed May 12. 1906- Serial No. 316.439-

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK W. HOMAN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Swampscott,- in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Boots or Shoes; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, .such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

The present invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes and more particularly to an improved turn boot or shoe, and it has for its object to produce a strong, well-made comfortable boot or shoe at small expense.

To the above ends the present invention consists of the improved boot or shoe which will now be described and claimed.

The present invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 shows in perspective my improved boot or shoe during the process of manufacture. Fig. 2 shows a plan View of the outsole. Fig. 3 shows the outsole in side elevation. Fig. 4 shows in perspective the slip or insole and illustrating its construction. Fig. 5 shows a longitudinal section through a shoe having a spring heel. Fig. 6 shows a cross section of the completed shoe. Fig. 7 shows a perspective view of the shoe without a spring heel.

In the accompanying drawings and throughout the specification similar reference characters will be employed to designate corresponding parts.

In the drawings I have represented my invention as being embodied in a low shoe or slipper and having an upper 1 of textile material, such as felt, or other similar goods, and a sole 2 of leather. The upper 1 consists of two layers of fabric, an outer layer or upper proper 4, and a lining 5, both of which are preferably made of felt and preferably of contrasting colors.

The upper proper 4 and the lining 5 are cut in the usual shape and are united around the foot opening by the seam 6 and each is united at the back by the usual back seams 7 and 8, the back seam 7 of the upper proper 4 being preferably covered by a stay piece 5).

The outsole 2 is shown in plan in Fig. 2, and in side elevation inFig. 3, and consists of a thickened body portion 3, which is of the size of the sole desired, and which is surrounded by the thin margin or border 12. This'outsole 2 is preferably made of sole leather as thin as is consistent with the skived edges as shown clearly in Fig. 2. It is of course apparent that this outsole need not be of sole leather, but that any sheepskin or other leather of sufficient thickness may be used in making the cheaper grades of shoes. Upon this outsole2 is cemented a layer 1.0 of leather board or other suitable material.

The general plan of the outsole, it will be seen, is

that there is a thickened central portion of the size of the sole or tread of the shoe with a thinner marginal portion, all for a purpose which will be made clear.

As illustrated in Fig. l, the shoe is made wrong side out and then turned and shaped and finished as shown in Fig. 6. The manner of uniting the sole and upper is clearly shown in Fig. 1, that is to say, the lining 5 is not secured at its edges to the sole and upper, except around the toe of the shoe, and during the construction of the shoe the lining 5 will be turned downward, as shown in Fig. 1. The outsole 2 is then placed in position with the part 3 uppermost and the marginal edge of the upper 4 and the reduced or sklved edge 12 of the outsole will be united by a line of stitches 14 extending all about the sole, it being understood that the parts are sewed wrong side out. Around the toe of the shoe the lining 5 will be preferably secured to the outsole by the same line of stitching, 14; which unites the outsole and upper, as shown clearly in Fig. 1. After the parts have been sewed together, as described, the thin edge 12 of the sole, together with the attached upper proper 4 will be crimped around the heel and toe, as shown clearly in Fig. l, and turned over and folded down along the sides, and at the toe and heel, upon the inner surface of the outsole and preferably at the toe and heel, draw strings 15 and '16 will be employed whereby the upper will be properly crimped and secured at these points, the draw strings being held in place by the over-seam stitches l7 and 18 at the heel and toe respectively. To secure the overturned edges of the upper and sole along the shank and ball portions of the shoe, a cord or heavy thread 19 will be employed,which extends across the bottom of the shoe upon the inside, and passes through the overturned edges of the upper and sole, as clearly shown in Fig. 1. This uniting of the inturned edges by the. cord 19 prevents the spreading of the shoe in use. After the parts have been secured together as described, the lining 5 will be turned up and the shoe turned right side out, thus producing the finished article, as shown in Fig. 7, in which the outsole will have a rounded edge as shown in this figure.

The lining 5 is preferably of such a depth that its free edges will lie on the inner surface of the sole upon the inside of the shoe, and the shoe will be finished by the insertion of the inner or slip sole, shown in Fig. 4. This slip sole may be of any usual or preferred construction, but I prefer to use the one shown, which consists of a sole-shaped piece of paper or other suitable material 20, and a layer of felt 21, which, preferably, is of the same color and texture as the lining of the shoe. These parts are cemented together and for ornamental purposes will be united along the marginal edges with the over-seam stitches 22, which can, if desired, be made of thread of a contrasting color to the color of the lining and insole. As shown in the drawing the slip sole is of sufiicient width and length that its edges overlap the stitching connecting the upper and the outsole. This has the effect when the weight of the foot'comes down upon the slip sole of causing the edges of the slip sole to bind the edge of the upper and the skived edge of the outsole down upon the body portion 3 of the outsole or upon the layer 10 cemented thereto. This has the effect of swelling the upper out to a greater width than required by the stitches so that the stitches are buried in the seam and are not in view from the outside. This gives a finished appearance to the shoe-which has not heretofore been attained.

If desired, the shoe may be provided with a so-called spring heel, as shown in Fig. 5 of the drawing, and this may be secured in'the following manner: The cover 13 of the sole will be turned over the interposed wedge lifts 23 which will be inserted between the part 10 and the cover 13.

It will of course be understood that my invention is not limited to a shoe made of any particular material, or one in which the upper is made of textile material 'and a sole of leather, but such is the preferred form of my invention.

Then the shoe is provided with a heel lift, as shown in Fig. 7, it will have the appearance about the heel portion of two finished rounded edges.

Having described my invention I claim as new and desire to protect by Letters Patent of the United States:

1. A boot or shoe comprising an upper. and an outsole, the outsole having an extended skived edge integral therewith surrounding the tread surface, the edge of the upper and the skived edge of the outsole stitched together and turned over upon the inner surface of the sole and a fastening cord or thread passing through the inturned edge of the upper and outsole on opposite sides and extending across the inner face of the sole.

2. A boot or shoe comprising an upper and a sole, the sole having relatively thick tread surface and a stitch receiving edge surrounding the relatively thick tread surface, the edge of the upper and the stitch receiving edge of the sole united by stitching and turned inward upon the inner face of the sole with the stitching substantially within the edge of the thick tread surface and a retaining cord securing said edges across said sole by lacing said edges together and a slip sole overlapping said stitched edges.

3. A boot or shoe comprising an upper and a sole, the sole having a relatively thick tread surface, a comparatively thinner stitch receiving edge surrounding the relatively thick tread surface and an upper layer,- the edge of the upper and the stitch receiving edge of the sole united by stitching and turned inward upon the inner face of the I upper layer, the stitching lying substantially within the edge of the sole and a retaining cord lacing said edges together across said sole.

4. A boot or shoe comprising an upper and a sole, the sole having a relatively thick tread surface, and a comparatively thinner stitch receiving edge surrounding the relatively thick tread surface, the edge of'the upper and the stitch receiving edge of the sole united by stitching and turned inward upon the inner face of the sole, the stitching lying substantially within the edge of the sole, a retaining cord lacing said edges together across said sole and a slip sole secured to said sole having its edges overlapping and extending beyond the line of stitching between the aforesaid edges whereby the stitching is made invisible from the exterior.

5. A boot or shoe comprising an upper, sole and lining, the sole having an extended stitch receiving edge surrounding the tread surface, the edge of the upper and the stitch receiving edge of the sole united by stitching entirely around the sole and turned inward upon the inner face of the sole and the lining stitched to the edge of the sole around the toe portion only, said lining being free and unattached about the remainder of its lower edge, whereby the lining may be free to overlap and cover the seam formed by stitching the upper and sole together.

6. A boot or shoe comprising an upper, sole and lining, the sole having an extended stitch receiving edge surrounding the tread surface, the edge of the upper and the stitch receiving edge of the sole united by stitching entirely around the sole and turned inward upon the inner face of the sole and the lining stitched to the edge of the sole around the toe portion only, said lining being free and unattached about the remainder of its lower edge, whereby the lining may be free to overlap and cover the seam formed by stitching the upper and sole together and a slip sole in said shoe having its edges overlapping said free edges of the lining.

7. A boot or shoe comprising an upper and a sole, the sole having an extended edge surrounding the tread surface, the edge of the upper and the extended sole edge secured together by stitching and turned over upon the inner surface of the sole, puckering cords extending about the heel and toe portions for crimping these portions of the edge of the sole and upper, and a lacing cord extending across the inner surface of the sole lacing together the inturned edges of the upper and sole between the toe and heel.

8. A boot or shoe comprising an outsole having a thinned edge turned upward and inward over the thicker portion of said outsole, an upper stitched to said thinned edge having the stitches buried and out of sight, the edges of the upper and the thinned edges of the sole on opposite sides being secured together across the upper face of the outsole by lacing, and an insole having its edges projecting over and lying down upon the said stitched edges.

In testimony whereof I afiix my signature, in presence of two witnesses.

FRANK w. HOM'AN.

Witnesses T. HART ANDERSON, MAY A. KENNEY. 

